Cross-border trade rules threaten Bangladesh’s traditional weaving

Tangail’s centuries-old weaving industry is facing a severe crisis as trade restrictions on land routes between Bangladesh and India have sharply reduced exports of the region’s iconic handwoven sarees. The restrictions have halved the volume of Tangail sarees shipped to India, leaving many local weaving businesses struggling to survive.

The situation was highlighted at a seminar titled “Tangail Weaving: Heritage Ownership and Industrial Potential”, organised yesterday (28 January) in Tangail by the Bangladesh National Commission for UNESCO under the Ministry of Education.

The event was attended by Prof C.R. Abrar, Education Adviser to the Government of Bangladesh and Chair of the National Commission for UNESCO, as chief guest. Other notable attendees included the Secretary of the Secondary and Higher Education Division and Rehana Parvin, Secretary-General of the National Commission for UNESCO. The keynote was delivered by Prof Masud Imran from Jahangirnagar University’s Department of Archaeology.

Speaking at the seminar, Barrister Sarwat Siraj Shukla said India imports around 7 million pieces of sarees from Bangladesh annually at comparatively low prices. “Previously, the cost of exporting each saree via land routes was around Tk38, but trade restrictions have increased this to nearly Tk80, with processing times also multiplying,” he said. He called for exploring new markets and alternative export routes while urging the government to provide policy support, incentives, and other measures to sustain the sector.

Local entrepreneurs echoed the concerns. Monira Emdad, owner of a Tangail saree cottage, said weaving sarees with 80-100 count thread has become increasingly difficult due to rising raw material costs, making it hard to compete in India. Weaver Raghunath Basak emphasised that while artisans understand the domestic market, they lack knowledge of export markets. He called for training programs and new market opportunities, warning that many weavers could go out of business if exports remain disrupted. Basak also highlighted the adverse impact of river pollution and foul odours in Tangail on production.

Neel Kamal Basak, another weaver, pointed out that silk raw materials now face a 63% import duty, forcing weavers to sell products at lower prices despite high material costs. Artisans also reported that the price of raw materials has surged seven to eight times, while saree prices have fallen by half, making it difficult to pay workers.

Abu Ahmed Siddiqui, Chairman of the Bangladesh Handloom Board, said the government previously offered incentives on raw material imports, but misuse by some traders led to their suspension. He noted that weavers now receive loans at 4% interest to support their businesses.

Prof Dr. C.R. Abrar stressed the need for coordinated efforts to preserve the country’s heritage, culture, and handicrafts, saying, “We must create an environment where traditions can flourish organically.” Prof Masud Imran added that safeguarding Bangladesh’s intangible cultural heritage requires national legal reforms, including the enactment of a dedicated ICH (Intangible Cultural Heritage) Act, digital inventories, inclusion of heritage in education curricula, integration with urban development plans, and protection of intellectual property.

The seminar also explored ways to protect Tangail weaving through Geographical Indications (GI) and trademarks, subsidies for thread, easy access to credit, craft tourism, and design banks. Experts stressed that preserving heritage is not just about safeguarding the past but ensuring future development.

Participants included representatives from various ministries, education institutions, weavers, researchers, entrepreneurs, designers, fashion and textile industry players, and civil society members, who discussed heritage ownership, branding, market development, and strategies to address the sector’s challenges.